STORY BY LARISSA DUBECKI, PHOTOS BY CHRIS TURNER

Fittingly for a bar decked out in so much Old World finery it’s like stepping into a portal to an earlier time, Creswick’s newest bar occupies its oldest building. Odessa is the latest iteration of Leaver’s Hotel, the 1852 construction that was the only thing on Alber Street left standing when fire ripped through more than a century ago.

It took Chantel Leaver and Cameron Ivchenko seven years to chip away at the renovation while working day jobs and raising children - certainly longer than the anticipated six months, but the results are spectacular. “Once we stripped back all the layers that have been added over the years back it revealed the original character,” says Leaver. “The original stone walls and old replaces and brick set the tone. We scoured eBay and garage sales and Gumtree. We found a lot of church furniture from Daylesford and courthouse benches and even an old bank door from England.”

The pair are part of a new wave turning the former gold mining and forestry town 15 minutes’ drive from Ballarat into a hub for artists and musicians. Odessa supports both, showcasing live music by mostly local bands every Saturday night and most Fridays (Thursdays are open mic, if you’re game) and hosting local art exhibitions that change every six weeks.

There’s a new energy in Creswick thanks to the intermingling of newcomers and old-timers and Odessa is intended to be a public space for all. “It was always a meeting place – it was a temporary town hall before the town hall was built, so it’s always had that vibe. And what we’ve found is that a lot of people don’t come here to drink. They come in to meet and socialise, to read a book on their own or to eat Ben’s food.”

Locally renowned chef Ben O’Brien is behind the menu of cauli ower fritters, grilled duck salad and kale curry. In a sign of the culinary times, it’s a collection of dishes singing in the key of comfort and equally at home with vegetarian dishes as it is a crackling pork belly.

The wine list is proudly local – “Of course, we’re in one of the best wine regions in the world,” says Leaver – and cocktails include martinis of all stripes. She is also working on the recipe for a new creation called the “soiled dove” which references the Leaver’s Hotel iteration as a brothel: “That’s what the women who worked here were called,” says Leaver. “The drink will be bright and fruity.”

There’s an open re for winter (or, let’s be honest, for any time the Central Victorian mercury dips to scarf-wearing weather) and a dance oor to make the most of the Friday and Saturday night bands.

“Depending on the band the music begins to play and people just get up and start dancing,” says Leaver. “There are these magical moments that just make it so special.”

Odessa At Leaver's Hotel
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0428 694 258
80 Albert St, Creswick
Open Thursday & Friday 4PM - 12AM, Saturday & Sunday 12PM - 12AM