As the tenth anniversary of Mitch Duncan and Steven Chau becoming custodians of Daylesford’s Farmers Arms Hotel approaches, it’s a good time to take stock of changes to the town’s oldest pub.

Serving its first beer in 1857 and going through various cycles of care and neglect since, it’s very much on the upswing. Exhibit A: the beer garden worthy of England’s Cotswolds you’ll now find hidden behind the ivy-covered red brick landmark, all tinkling fountain, lush lawns and meticulously tended garden beds. It’s dog friendly, too.

Duncan and Chau bought the pub 10 years ago almost by accident. They’d visited Daylesford and the Farmers “on what was probably our third date,” says Duncan, fallen in love with both and leaped at the chance to buy the shabby grand dame when it unexpectedly hit the market soon afterwards.

It had blipped on the radar of the early-noughties gastropub revolution, when it sported a Good Food Guide hat, but had fallen into disrepair. “The bar fridges would fall through the floor,” says Duncan. “There were mice and a sticky carpet.”

Two new private dining rooms have since been added, carved off from the former publican’s quarters. The main dining room has a separate menu but might defy expectations with one dictat: “We don’t do a parma.”

Don’t go expecting anything too fancy, however. Head chef of 10 years, Chris Timmins, is into regional produce and country style. Duck sausages from nearby Ballan with housemade beef jus, creamy mash and fried leeks. Filet mignon with Istra pancetta from neighbouring Musk. Miso and olive oil polenta with grilled local vegetables and salsa verde (“fabulous as a main for vegans or as a side”).

Plans are afoot. Both the dining room and main bar are about to expand, the latter without losing its mission as a classically comforting front bar, pouring their own lager and dark ale and adding a punchy wine list cherry picking the best of the region. Cocktails? Make that a yes, with a solid spirits list and on-song garnishes. A wild tumble of rhubarb ribbons tops the sweet-tart Rhubarb Sour, while a crisp fan of green apple adds extra pizzazz to a G&T made with Hepburn Distillery gin and fresh red ruby grapefruit.

Fun fact: the garden tended to by former Carlton premiership player Shane “Robbo” Robertson is looking so good Duncan is thinking about including it in next year’s Open Gardens scheme.

Community engagement has been a focus for the Duncan and Chau-era Farmers Arms. That could mean anything from the weekly meat tray raffle (the spirit of inclusion means there’s also a vegan tray) to their sponsorship of the local football and netball clubs and the town’s New Year’s Eve parade and fundraising for the local hospital.

And while the pub is open seven days a week, as all good country pubs should be, they close on Christmas Day to host a lunch for those in need. “We get 50 or 60 people to sit down for a feast,” says Duncan. “Our families know that if they want to see us for Christmas they have to come here and volunteer. It’s always a great day.”