From morning coffee and croissants to dinner and a nightcap, this charming hangout has all bases covered.

Definitionally speaking, a hotel restaurant must be many things to many people. A breakfast spot for families, a place to do business or catch up with friends at lunch, the scene for a romantic rendezvous at dinner.

Hepburn Springs' landmark Hotel Bellinzona has all those hallmarks – and many more besides – sewn up with the versatility of The Virgin Kitchen. The heart of the heritage hotel, which was established in 1903 and relaunched in 2021 after a multi-million-dollar makeover, morphs easily from daytime café to a night-time restaurant.

“At a venue like this it’s important to be a breakfast, lunch and dinner proposition – and to do them all equally well,” says Tony Barradale, Chief Executive of The Houses Hotel Group, owner of Hotel Bellinzona and The Virgin Kitchen. “It doesn’t matter whether you’re after a drink or a snack, brunch or a three-course dinner – and of course we’re happy to serve eggs at 3pm for anyone rolling out of bed late.”

The Virgin Kitchen is an elegant backdrop for an egg and bacon roll, albeit one elevated with excellent local produce including Istra bacon and smoked tomato and onion chutney. Decked out to impress – the vibe is French country house, meets modern mansion - its insouciant mix of antiques and contemporary fittings hits the eclectic-done-well note. Upholstered in black leather, the central banquette is the spine of a room picking up the energy of the semi-open kitchen.

If it’s coffee you’re after, The Virgin Kitchen has a Central Victorian monopoly on beans from artisan roaster Proud Mary. Keen for something stronger? The wine list celebrates local heroes including Passing Clouds and Sutton Grange, both among 20 available by the glass, while the 300-strong reserve list spreads its wings across the globe.

Come evenings, the eclectic menu makes a focus of house-made pasta in all its shapeshifting forms: classic ricotta gnocchi in Napoli sauce jazzed up with confit heirloom tomatoes, or pappardelle with a local mushroom ragu. Mains stick to a loosely Italian theme with chicken Milanese, pork belly in a honey and date jus, slow-cooked lamb shoulder with pea puree and a refreshing mix of cherry tomatoes, fennel and mint. Just add fries and a salad and call it a feast.

The Virgin Kitchen’s outdoor dining setting is a particular drawcard on these mild autumn nights. Seating up to 100 people against a backdrop of manicured gardens and mature deciduous trees, it’s a rarity for this part of the world, and the perfect place for aperitivo hour (the Bellinzona spritz, made with violet liqueur, prosecco and soda will go nicely, thanks very much).

“It’s a really relaxed vibe where people can relax and eat and drink, European-style,” says Tony. “You can also bring your dog, which is very popular with locals.”

Locals are also well cared for on Wednesdays locals’ night, which offers two courses and a glass of wine or beer for $39. “People are careful about where they spend their money, especially at the moment, and we’re keen to offer an amazing evening that they can treat themselves to every week.”

STORY BY LARISSA DUBEKI PHOTOS BY CHRI S TURNER

THE VIRGIN KITCHEN
OPEN 7 DAYS & 7 NIGHTS

thevirginkitchen.com.au
03 5348 2271
77 Main Road Hepburn Springs, Victoria, 3461
@thevirginkitchen