STORY BY LARISSA DUBECKI, PHOTOS BY CHRIS TURNER

Anything goes at Wild Food & Wine – and that’s just the way co-owners Toby Waite and Brendan Jones like it.

“The other day we had a guest who just ordered two oysters,” says Waite, who runs front-of-house at the Castlemaine wine bar and restaurant. “I really love seeing someone come in and choose their speed, whether it’s a drink or a few small plates or a full dinner. We really want to be able to represent that kind of flexibility and be the kind of place people feel comfortable doing their thing.”

Opened in Castlemaine’s historic former fire station in November 2019, Wild Food & Wine represents a lifestyle dream for the former Melbourne-based pair who had trod the boards of notable city haunts including Rosa’s Canteen and the Riverland Group’s Pilgrim Bar, where they originally met.

“I moved to Castlemaine with my partner, and once we found out she was pregnant we decided to look into opening a restaurant to run our own show. Brendan and I knew each other from way back and it all fell into place,” says Toby. “It’s great working with someone who’s turning up as focused as you are about quality.”

The pair wanted to emulate the casual nature of their favourite Melbourne restaurants where the choose-your-own-adventure approach doesn’t preclude excellent food and wine.

Brendan’s menu swings easily from snacks and smaller plates through to protein-based mains designed to feed to or more. At the shallow end you’ll find eggplant and smoked mozzarella croquettes and pan-fried halloumi with pear and date chutney; chicken liver parfait with fig jam and croutons and kingfish tartare with avocado mousse and sesame dressing. Down the deeper end there’s twice-cooked sweetcorn souffle with bay leaf cream, a prawn and snapper pot pie (“We do put an emphasis on great seafood,” says Toby) and a shareable roast lamb rump bringing Med vibes with ratatouille, braised white beans and prosciutto.

The drinks list is an equally democratic beast. In keeping with the Mediterranean spirit, cocktails and aperitifs are big on vermouth, including local heroes Maidenii (drink it neat or go the full Negroni) while a purist’s list of cocktails including a Bramble Sour and Tommy’s Margarita are rounded out by the imagination of the customers: “We can make anything if requested or invent something to go with whatever whims our guests have,” says Toby.

The 100-strong wine list also covers plenty of ground. The focus is on the acclaimed local wine region but you’ll also find it rounded out by the likes of white Burgundy and a great French rosé, should the mood take you.

Plans are afoot for a refurbishment of the 1906 fire station with its broad bifold windows opening onto the street, where umbrella-shaded tables and a parklet add their own al fresco frisson. “As nice as the space is at the moment,” says Toby, “There’s always something you keep dreaming of doing when it’s your own place. That’s part of the joy.”

Wild Food & Wine

03 4432 7352

26A Templeton St, Castlemaine

www.wildfoodandwine.com